Gastrognome — The “Original” Yucatan Taco Stand
by Pete Wann
Yucatan Taco Stand
909 West Magnolia Avenue
Map
Note: This review features input from not one, but two West & Clear staffers. The first part of the review is from Pete Wann, and the second part is a vegetarian perspective from me, Kevin Buchanan, along with my photography of the place. Enjoy!
P. W. - There’s been a ton of discussion about the decor of this place. I think it looks like a cross between Gloria’s and Ronin. Not exactly modern — more Mayan Riviera minimalist.
The ordering process is similar to Fuzzy’s or Pei Wei (Or so I’m told — I can’t remember the last time I was in Pei Wei.), where you order your food and get a number, then the yummies are brought out to you.
I ordered the shredded garlic beef sandwich (one of a list of “Latin American Style” sandwiches), which came with fried plantains and chipotle ranch on the side. My companion tried one of the fish tacos and a tempura chicken taco. We also got chips and salsa, but no queso. (Cheese isn’t meant to be liquid, IMO.)
The chips were dusted with a VERY spicy mix, but fortunately the salsa was cold and a little sweet, so the two balanced each other well.
I didn’t try either of the tacos, but judging by the “snarf snarf” sounds I heard from the other side of the table, and how short their time was on this plane of existence, I’m guessing they were pretty good.
My sandwich was interesting. The bread it was served on was thoroughly toasted on both sides, and a little sweet. The sweetness of the bread almost overpowered the delicate flavors of the shredded beef and special cheeses tucked inside. Don’t get me wrong — the sandwich was good, but not really anything *spectacular*. (And for $7.50 for a sandwich with a side of flavorless fried plantains, I sorta want to see SPECTACULAR.)
We also ordered margaritas, and I think they were the highlight of the trip — strong, and obviously made from scratch, not with some overly sweet premix. J&J’s Hideaway fans rejoice! The bartender on duty Thursday night (his first) was none other than Matthew, he of the highly stretched earlobes and newly yellow faux-hawk.
My prediction — TOYTS (Sorry, but The “Original” Yucatan Taco Stand is too much to type every time) will be a hit. Every restaurant needs a little time to tweak menus and recipes, and TOYTS is starting from a great place and with successful Fort Worth restaurant DNA. Considering they’re not “officially” open yet, they’ve still got plenty of time to get things just right.
I bumped into one of the managing partners while I was there, and he mentioned that the partnership is looking at a few more opportunities around the city, specifically mentioning a vegan restaurant planned for the Race Street area, along with a boutique hotel and a neighborhood market, as well as a couple of other things that he wouldn’t go into. Considering how successful Fuzzy’s has been and the promise that TOYTS shows, I’m expecting good things out of this group!
K. B. - At long last, the long-speculated-about Yucatan Taco Stand has opened on Magnolia. I left the carnivorous fare up to Mr. Wann and companion above, and decided that as is usually my way, I would take the vegetarian route. So, a day before Pete took his trip, the lovely Lady Southside and I wandered down Magnolia and entered the dark, woody atmosphere of Yucatan.
We ordered chips, salsa, and queso (I have no qualms about the stuff, and good queso is essential to my enjoyment of a meal). The salsa was cool and flavorful, and the chips were great as well. I was especially impressed with the queso. Thick, and with an interesting slightly smokey flavor I’ve never encountered in a queso before. Top notch.
She had a vegetarian burrito bowl, an elaborate affair that she described as “like Chipotle but way better.” Bigger, too - the bowl was impressive in its size. The tastes I took of it led me to the same conclusion: the vegetarian bowl is indeed a tasty dish.
As for myself, I took opportunity of the time and ordered one of the after-4:00 PM dishes: The vegetarian “mix-mex” grill. This arrived on a long, skinny white plate, and was a sight indeed. Starting from the right, there were some black beans, a mound of rice, some grilled onions, a pile of grilled asparagus, some friend plantains, grilled squash, grilled zucchini, grilled peppers, mashed potatoes in an artful swirl, tortilla strips, and a dipping sauce of some sort (for the life of me, I cannot recall what this was). It was quite an assortment of food.
The black beans had a great flavor. The rice was tasty and very well cooked. I’m not much of an onion sort of guy, but these grilled onions were great. The grilled asparagus was even better. The plantains were truly wonderful - contrary to Pete’s experience, I found them very flavorful and delicious, and they went nicely with the dipping sauce. The rest of the grilled veggies were good as well, though it took me long enough to get to them that the squash had gotten a little soggy. I was enjoying the rest of the dish too much to hurry. The mashed potatoes were a great touch as well. They tasted great and added a nice counterpoint to the rest of the ingredients.
For dessert, we ordered the tequila lime sorbet, but alas, the machine was broken. They offered us any other dessert for free, so we opted for the cappuccino pie. This thing - this was something else. It had an interesting texture, both to the crust and the pie, and the flavor…well, after the first bite, I couldn’t help but remark “My God, it’s full of stars!” Beyond that was the whole interstellar wormhole thing with the flowing colors and surreal images. As I took the last bite, I could see myself as an old man, laying in a white bed in the middle of a white room as a nine-foot tall slice of cappuccino pie stood over me and the first notes of Also Sprach Zarathustra rose up from silence.
In other words, it was extremely good.
All in all, we were extremely impressed by Yucatan. The vegetarian offerings are many and varied, which always impresses us. Everything we had was fantastic. After just a few days, there are obviously tweaks to be made as the place finds its footing, but I think Yucatan already has a great start and will likely be one of our favorite eateries. It’s another jewel in the Magnolia/Park Place restaurant crown.
Tags: Gastrognome, magnolia, restaurants, the original yucatan taco stand
26 Comments, Comments or Pings
Pete G
Great photos Kevin. Sounds and looks mad delicious!
Aug 22nd, 2008
Paul
OK, nerdy photo questions for Kevin:
What did you shoot this with? I’m guessing you were at a really low ISO speed to get such shallow depth of field. Did you shoot in RAW format, or in JPEG? I’m taking some pictures of a friend’s salon next weekend (using a Canon XTi) and I want to be sure to get the best shots I can … I figure you and Pete G would offer good opinions on this.
Great review, though. I’ll have to bug Steve about trying this place next time I’m in the FW.
Aug 22nd, 2008
Josie
I’m definitely going have to try this place out-great review. However, I’m totally blown away by the photos. It’s really hard to photograph food-I know, I’ve been trying. I’m a total novice photographer and also interested in how you photographed the food.
Aug 22nd, 2008
John Peter Smith
Nice job guys.
Could you give us a little more info on the prices? As a semi-vegetarian this sounds like some place the lovely Mrs. Smith would enjoy.
Just wondering how many aluminum cans I have to collect to take her there.
Aug 22nd, 2008
Bernie
With the going price for cans being about 75 cents/pound, and an average of 34 cans per pound, a taco at TOYTS will set you back 136 cans. A margarita costs about 249 cans.
Aug 22nd, 2008
Pete Wann
JPS — Most of the evening entrees are above $10. Tacos and sandwiches are in the $4-9 range.
My companion and I got out with the meal I described for $30, which quite frankly was a bit of sticker shock.
The food was good, but it’s going to be a “once in a while” treat, like Lili’s or Nonna Tata is for me.
Aug 22nd, 2008
Recyclican
@ Paul
Kevin used a Canon EOS Rebel XT. He used a 50mm lens with a relatively large aperture (F2.5 on the cappuccino pie photo, for example), and an exposure time of 1/100. The ISO was still 400 for that particular photo, and used no flash.
* Nerd Alert *
If you use Mozilla Firefox and are in to photography, you should download the EXIF Viewer add-on: https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/3905
It allows you to right-click photos and view the info captured at the same time the photo was taken. Better description found on the add-on page
Aug 22nd, 2008
AndyN
Zarathustra said what? (Commonly known as 2001: Space Odyssey)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENl4JK6LJ0Y
Aug 23rd, 2008
BigEdTX
Just discovered West & Clear yesterday and saw the review of TOYTS. My wife is a great lover of fish tacos as found in Southern Calif(Rubios). After reading the review I decided to take her their last night not realizing they had been open only a few days. She was delighted with the fish tacos. She is very particular and is never satisfied. Some of the required elements are corn tortillas(should be more than one per taco) and cabbage. She likes the fish fried and I am happy to say the Yucatan Taco Shop met all her requirements. I had a fish taco also, but most enjoyed the Cabrito Taco which was moist and flavorful. More important than the food was the spirits…staff, clientel and alcohol. This is a hot and happening little place. The regular frozen margarita was perfectly mixed. It was not Patron but was not made with cheap tequila either.
We will return to the Yucatan soon, maybe tonight. I may try some serious tequila tasting.
Aug 23rd, 2008
jb
Should people who are not even vegetarian open a vegan restaurant? Weak!
Aug 23rd, 2008
willm
J.B….”Should people who are not even vegetarian open a vegan restaurant? Weak!”
How do you know that are not Vegan? Also, even if they are not, why would that disqualifiy them? Also, do you also think that only vegan food critics should be allowed to review vegan restaurants? “weak”.
Aug 23rd, 2008
Adam S.
This place was great. My wife and I went there last night. I had the garlic beef nachos and my wife had a tequila lime chicken sandwich. The beef on the nachos was very tasty. I was most impressed with the bread on my wife’s sandwich. It was crusty on the outside, but the middle of the bread was soft and sweet. The margarita’s were strong and the bartender gave me super-extra salt on my glass.
It’s a vast improvement over the previous restaurant. I know I can take my brother-in-law here and he’ll like it. My wife and I are going back soon.
I give it a 9/10
Aug 24th, 2008
jb
Vegans don’t open taco stands that serve meat. You don’t become vegan because meat tastes bad. you become vegan because meat is cruel, bad for your health and bad for the environment. Why should non vegans not be able to open a vegan restaurant? Because its sad when someone exploits a way of life for money. Tell me why they should be able to.
Aug 24th, 2008
kdb
Oh my, this place was great! I went for lunch but will be going back for dinner.
JB: ?? First, I didn’t see any where within TOYTS that they touted themselves as a vegetarian much less vegan establishment. Nor did I read anywhere within this article or it’s comments that anyone said they were vegan. Obviously the reviewer is not vegan either. He had a wide array of dairy products.
Restaurants of all types offer meatless, nondairy, ect. I mean really, Fort Worth Dallas must the mecca of Tex Mex and my EXTREME vegan cousin can find a wide array of food enjoy when she visits here.
No. 1 reason and only reason, it’s a free country. Get over it.
Aug 24th, 2008
jb
We are not talking about this restaurant. We are talking about the vegan restaurant they plan on opening, as stated in the article.
Aug 25th, 2008
Ross
JB –
First, I would think that most vegans would welcome more dining options. Speaking as the spouse of a vegetarian, I will happily receive any new establishments that cater to the vegan/vegetarian crowd.
Second, the reasons you give for becoming vegan may apply to you or someone you know, but they certainly don’t apply to all vegans. You imply a moral element to veganism that is not shared by all vegans.
Third, your point about a way of life being exploited is ridiculous. The question is not why someone should be able to open a vegan establishment, but why they shouldn’t. You also seem to have an unorthodox definition of exploitation. I ‘m sure we can all think of many examples of businesses that provide goods and services to certain groups but don’t share that group’s way of life, philosophy, or lifestyle choice. Providing a quality good/service at a fair price without substantial barriers to entry is not exploitation.
Aug 25th, 2008
Chris S
Sweeeeeeet. Now I can ride my bike to the Taco stand.
Awesome-ness. Sorry Fuzzy’s - love ya, but this is closer.
Aug 25th, 2008
Kevin Buchanan
Chris,
As I am about to move to Fairmount - as in, I’m signing papers this week! - I am right there with you. I can’t wait to spend some of my free time biking around Magnolia & the rest of the neighborhood & district.
Aug 25th, 2008
Jeremy
Alright Kevin! Welcome to the neighborhood!!
What part of the Near Southside are you moving to?
Aug 26th, 2008
Kevin Buchanan
Jeremy,
Fairmount. Just a couple of blocks south of Magnolia, in fact.
Aug 26th, 2008
fwtacoma
Does anybody else think the angled bowls are difficult to eat out of? I had the chimichanga pollo verde (which was delicious) but the bowl made it very difficult to eat. I always felt like the meal was going to pop out.
That wont keep me away though. Great food and great environment.
Aug 26th, 2008
Chris H
Ate there last night. The veggie bowl with Habanero salsa was great!
Gracie loved the burrito.
BTW JB, not all vegans are out to make a political statement. I was vegan for a while and still enjoy the food all the time. Nothing to do with cruelty, just dietary considerations for me. I’d enjoy more vegan/vegetarion options around here. I don’t care who cooks it as long as it’s good.
Aug 28th, 2008
Jacko
I’m surprised the Yucatan contingency of W&C readers hasn’t spoken up about how these non-yucatanese people are exploiting us gringos.
Aug 29th, 2008
VinnyV
Waiting for this thread to die and drop off and see next topic…
…yet, i can’t stop reading.
Damn your incessant descriptions of food!
Aug 30th, 2008
Tim Snapp
I live on the south side and welcome the new businesses on Magnolia, which is long over due.
Neighbors invited me to join them at Yucatan this week, 5 of us.
I walked in and was amazed at the transformation the ol’BJ Keefers greazy burger pitt. Interior, front porch looks great, back bar fantasic and happy hour import beer 2 bucks, can’t be beat!!
It went down hill a bit when it was time to order food, cafeteria style. When after a long day you feel like you should be “waited” on in a place with these looks? Finding you can order a drink from a server but you have to get up , (all of you) and order your food inside. The biggest problem we found was that almost all the servers, smiles, eager to help…knew nothing about the Food!!
At the counter it took the 5th person to know something about a certain dish. I got a shrugg and “idunno?” It feels like everone tries to look the coolest with hair and tats and more of a social hour than making the business a success.
Margarita was miami beach prices at 18 dollars… for 2 drinks $36 plus a 3.50 taco, wow!
I think Pei Wei has it down when ordering in that system Yucatan is using. But They are a corpoation and have everyone answer any question and know the ingredients of the food you are trying to sell, the key “Upsell”
I think Yucatan are doing themselves a diservice by not having servers taking orders at tableside to upsell and feel at comfort with one server instead of dealing with 4 different people, paying for food seperate from drinks..it just gets to be too much work for a diner after a long day at work!
There
i love the start of what they got, i hope they will survive on the southside, thanks for listening
ps food looks great plates ,taste, colorful and all!
Sep 19th, 2008
Kevin Buchanan
I’ve never had much problem with the ordering process, but then again, I really don’t drink anymore so I’ve never had to order any alcoholic libations.
Sep 19th, 2008
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